Choosing a wall color sounds simple—until you’re standing in front of a sea of paint chips, wondering why “warm beige” looks pink in your living room but perfectly neutral in your friend’s. The truth is, the right colour isn’t just about picking a pretty shade, it’s about how it works with your light, your space, and the mood you want to create.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the exact steps I use to help clients find their perfect color—without the disappointment (or expensive repainting) later.
Start With the Room’s Purpose
Before you even start picking up paint chips, there’s one question you need to ask yourself: How do you want the space to feel?
Do you imagine it bright and energetic? Open and airy? Calming and clean? Warm and inviting? Or maybe sheltered and cosy? Once you know that, everything else gets a lot easier. You’ll have a clear direction before you even look at a single swatch.
One of the best ways to figure out the feeling you want is to think about the room’s purpose.
What’s it actually used for?
If it’s a high-energy space, like a playroom, you might want it to feel happy, playful, and stimulating. But there’s a catch—vibrant, highly saturated colors can make you more alert, but they can also be overwhelming and tiring after a while. That’s why a child’s bright orange bedroom might feel cheerful during the day, but make it harder for them to relax at night.
For calmer spaces like bedrooms, muted tones work beautifully. They’re the perfect backdrop—soft and easy on the eyes, while letting other pieces in the room shine. You can still bring in contrast and interest through furniture and accents. For example, matte dark brown walls paired with a cream sofa and light wood floors create high contrast that’s both exciting and soothing at the same time.
Bright, cool colours can make a room feel crisp, fresh, and bigger, but they can also feel a bit cold or even sterile. Warm, less saturated neutrals are perfect for creating a more intimate, cosy atmosphere.

Light Changes Everything
Once you’ve decided on the mood, it’s time to look at the room’s natural conditions. Where is it in your home? How many windows are there, and which way do they face? Is there anything outside that could influence the light—like a big tree or a neighbour’s brightly painted wall?
The direction your room faces will completely change how paint looks. North-facing rooms get less light, and the light is cooler and bluer. South-facing rooms get lots of bright light, which is warmer and whiter but can wash out colors. West-facing windows bring in rich, warm yellow and orange light in the afternoon.
If you’re painting a north-facing room but want it to feel warmer, choose a color that’s warmer than you think you need—the cool light will tone it down. On the other hand, if your room gets lots of direct sunlight, like a south-facing one, strong colors can become overpowering, so a more muted version might be better.
For example:
A friend of mine had what I thought was the perfect mid-tone neutral. It wasn’t too warm, not too grey—just perfectly balanced. People loved it and asked for the exact paint code. But when they used it in their own homes, it turned peachy cream instead of neutral warm grey.
The difference? Her apartment had only north-facing windows, so the cool light balanced out the warmth. The other homes had west-facing windows, which enhanced all the warm undertones.
Moral of the story: you can be inspired by someone else’s wall color, but always test it in your own space before committing.
If your room doesn’t get much sunlight, a lighter colour can help maximize brightness. But if there’s no natural light at all, don’t fight it—embrace it. Go for a deep, moody shade and make it cosy. Add warm lighting and lean into the “cocoon” feeling. Dark walls can actually make a small, low-light room feel bigger because they visually recede.

Extra tip:
When selecting exterior paint colors, remember that abundant natural light makes all colors appear much lighter than they do on the paint chip. As a rule of thumb, choose a color two shades darker than you actually want it to look for an exterior – what might seem bold in the store will likely look perfectly balanced on your home’s facade. Don’t be afraid to go darker than your instincts tell you; that rich navy you’re worried about will probably read as a beautiful, sophisticated blue once it’s up on your walls. The outdoor light will naturally soften and brighten any color you choose, so embrace those deeper, more saturated shades that catch your eye.
Let Your Personal Preferences Lead You
Your taste matters as much as lighting and layout. A quick way to determine what you actually like is to look in your wardrobe. If it’s full of black, white, and neutrals, you probably like crisp, clean spaces with high contrast. If you’re drawn to earthy tones in clothing, you’ll likely feel more at home with warm, natural colors on your walls.
Even where you live can influence what you like. Scandinavian homes often feature crisp whites and cool neutrals, partly because of the long, dark winters. Their eyes have gotten used to low light, snow and high contrast. Contrary to warmer climates like Tuscany or the Middle East, you’ll see richer, sunnier colors—warm neutrals like ochre, terracotta, and sandy beige, plus plenty of bold, vibrant shades.
Your personal style and geographic location naturally shape your color preferences, so choose paint colors that genuinely appeal to you – you’ll never tire of shades you’re naturally drawn to.
Testing Your Colors
Once you’ve narrowed it down, test your colors directly on the wall. Do it in at least three places—opposite the windows, in a corner, and next to the trim. Trim color makes a difference; white trim will make colors look stronger, while wood or darker trim changes the balance and may tone it down.

Check the colors at different times of day—morning, midday, evening—and in different weather. A shade that looks perfect on a sunny day might feel completely different under grey skies.
Small paint chips from the store are just a starting point. Bigger swatches or painted test patches will give you a much more accurate read. Colors always shift on a large surface—bright ones get brighter, dark ones deepen, and very light shades can look almost white.
Sheen and Finish Matter Too
The finish you choose will change the way the color looks and how the room feels. Flat finishes hide imperfections and absorb light, which is great for ceilings or moody walls. Matte walls feel soft and elegant. Eggshell adds a touch of sheen without going shiny. Semi-gloss is perfect for trims—it’s durable and gives a nice contrast.
Keep in mind that glossier finishes reflect more light, which makes colors look brighter and more saturated. The same shade in a flat finish will look softer than in satin or semi-gloss.
Flat finish: Non-reflective, smooth appearance; excellent at hiding surface imperfections. Ideal for ceilings. Not very washable, so less suitable for high-traffic or moisture-prone areas.
Matte finish: Non-reflective, smooth appearance; also excellent at hiding surface imperfections. Ideal for low-traffic areas where a subtle, non-glossy look is desired. A bit more durable than the flat finish.
Eggshell: Slightly more reflective than matte, with a soft, velvety appearance; easy to clean. Suitable for living rooms, bedrooms, and dining areas where a balance of durability and subtle sheen is preferred.
Satin: Pearly-like appearance, moderately reflective; durable and easy to clean. Suitable for moderate to high-traffic areas such as family rooms, hallways, and kitchens. Offers a smooth finish that resists moisture and stains.
Semi-Gloss: Noticeably reflective with a shiny appearance; highly durable and easy to clean. Ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, trim, doors, and cabinets where moisture resistance and durability are important.
High Gloss: Very reflective, mirror-like surface; extremely durable and washable. Used for accent pieces, furniture, or areas requiring a high level of washability and a striking appearance. Also shows every imperfection.
Watch Out for Undertones
Try to spot undertones. Every color has one. Even neutrals have undertones. A beige might turn pink in certain light, or a grey might lean green. This is why testing in your own home is so important—undertones are sneaky.
Mass tone is the color you see first – what makes you say “that’s blue” or “that’s gray.”
Undertone is the subtle hint of another color hiding underneath. For example, a gray might have blue, green, or purple undertones that only show up in certain lighting.
The closer these two are, the “truer” the color looks. A true red has red undertones, but many reds lean orange or pink. Simple ways to spot undertones is to compare colors side-by-side.
Never judge a color alone. Place your paint chip next to a pure white or the same color family. The undertone will pop out immediately. You can also place the chip on white computer paper – the contrast makes undertones obvious.
Look at the deepest color on your paint strip. Undertones are much easier to see in darker versions than in the pale ones at the top.
Use the warm vs. cool test by asking yourself: Does this color feel cozy (warm) or fresh (cool)?
Warm undertones: red, orange, yellow
Cool undertones: blue, green, purple
This matters because when undertones clash, your room feels “off” even if you can’t pinpoint why. But when they work together, your space feels harmonious and intentional.
The bottom line: Take time to understand what’s hiding beneath your paint color’s surface. Your walls (and your sanity) will thank you.

How to Build a Color Scheme?
Now that you understand how to identify undertones and choose colors that reflect your personal style, it’s time to put it all together. There are several ways to build a color scheme.
I like starting with a piece you love—maybe a rug, fabric, or piece of art—and then pulling the wall color from it. If you love red, you can use different shades of it for a harmonious look that feels rich without being overwhelming.
Feature walls painted in a single bold color often feel dated. If you want a focal point, try architectural details, textured finishes, or wallpaper. With wallpaper, you can choose a dominant pattern and match the other walls to one of its base tones for a cohesive look.
And don’t forget the floor—it has undertones too. Bring a sample to the paint store so you can make sure your wall color works with it rather than fighting against it.
Choosing the perfect wall colour is part science, part art, and part instinct. If you pay attention to light, undertones, and the feeling you want to create, you’ll end up with a color you love—and one you won’t get tired of six months later.
If you want to learn more about how to design your home, read my other post Where to Start When Designing Your Home.
